Category Italy

Villabella : moving Chiaretto di Bardolino to a premium level of rosé

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With a new summer come new campaigns for rosé. The Anteprima del Chiaretto promotes the crisp and fresh rosés from the Garda Lake, in northern Italy. These wines are made of the same grapes as the red Bardolino, so mainly Corvina, often complemented with Rondinella.

Just as last year I received samples of the new vintage. My assessment last year of the 2020s was very positive. I remember writing that it would be hard to pick a bad Chiaretto. The balance of those rosés was the main reason for that, with attractive red fruit and that typical crisp acidity that gives that mouthwatering quality to Chiaretto. The 2021 vintage proved to be a more uneven vintage, with generally speaking a markedly higher acidity, so not everyone managed to achieve that balance of the 2020 Chiaretti. One winery that managed particularly well despite the challenges, is Vigneti Villabella. Not only were their four Chiaretti consistently good and nicely balanced, one of them also showed remarkable complexity and depth. Impressed by their wines, I spoke to Mr Franco Cristoforetti to find out more.

Vigneti Villabella was founded in 1971 on the shores of Lake Garda by Franco’s father, Giorgio Cristoforetti, and Walter Delibori. Despite the fact that Villabella produces wines from all the main DOP in the region, be it Bardolino, Valpolicella, Soave or Lugana, their focus has always been Chiaretto. As Mr Cristoforetti explains : “We know Corvina very well. We know how to work with it. For example, we have always selected vineyards of Corvina to make Chiaretto.” The latter is not always the case for rosé, as it can also be a by-product of red wine, when part of the juice is drained off to make rosé, often referred to as the saignée method. That was also the way that Chiaretto was produced, at least until 2014, when the Consorzio of Bardolino decided to start making a very fresh, crisp and sapid style of Chiaretto, using the direct press method. Mr Cristoforetti, who is also the president of the Consorzio, still speaks of that moment as a revolutionary decision. And for sure one they have reaped great benefits of. The production of Chiaretto went up from 4 million bottles in 2014 to 10 million bottles just a few years later.

Villabella’s standard Chiaretto di Bardolino is one of the standard bearers of the current style. “It has been a benchmark wine since 2014”, explains Mr Cristoforetti. “We chill the grapes, which allows us to extend the maceration. And longer maceration gives a stronger aromatic profile.” Already last year this wine was among my favorites of the 2020 vintage, and also the 2021 stands out because of the pleasantly fruity nose, with peaches and strawberries, refreshing acidity, and its delicate herbal aromas. “It’s the perfect wine for pizzerias or bars who serve rosé by the glass”. And the waiting staff will undoubtedly love the screwcap.

Another Chiaretto di Bardolino is Villabella’s Heaven Scent. It’s remarkably darker than the other one. “2021 was a more difficult year than 2020 for Chiaretto. In general there is the hallmark crispness and acidity, but the roundness of 2020 is lacking a bit here and there. We might have to wait a bit for the acidity to integrate and even out. But it was also a particularly challenging vintage to manage the color, which in turn reduced the maceration time. That also explains why 2021 can be less aromatic than 2020. Heaven Scent is a wine that we make for the Northern European market, including the UK. For them it is less important to have very pale rosé, so we let it get a bit more color.” It for sure is a typical example of the Chiaretto style, very juicy and fruity from the first sip, smooth and round, with attractive fruit and crispy freshness.

In 2002 the owners of Villabella buy Villa Cordevigo, a beautiful estate that they turn into the hospitality center of the winery. The surrounding vineyards are used for a separate line of wines that are sold under the Cordevigo label. “The grapes for the Villa Cordevigo Chiaretto 2021 are grown organically. It’s also the only Chiaretto that is made using ambient yeasts for the fermentation. This gives a completely different wine, and a different mouthfeel,” explains Mr Cristoforetti. The result is a rather expressive Chiaretto with strawberries and delicate smoky notes. The mouthfeel is remarkably smooth and creamy, quite the opposite of most Chiaretti in 2021, and is kept fresh by a well integrated acidity.

The Gaudenzia 2019 is the crown jewel of Villabella’s Chiaretti. The 2018 was the first appearance of this Chiaretto and it was immediately met with great enthusiasm. German language wine magazine Falstaff bestowed it with 94 points, putting it in Italy’s top three rosés in 2021. The Gaudenzia 2019 is no less a head-turner. Amongst the 50 samples I tasted, it stood out as a complex wine with a very different set of aromas than other Chiaretti. Ripe peach, melon and smoky notes in the background give this wine a very different profile. On the palate this wine is also much fuller and richer, adding extra depth. The color of the wine has obvious yellow tones that show that this is not last year’s rosé. “When we make this wine, we also extract some tannins, that is one of the reasons why we let it age 3 years before we put it on the market. We also apply micro-oxygenation for that reason.” Mr Cristoforetti further explains that this is not just a direct press rosé : “This is a mix of the two methods. Part of the grapes are pressed directly, the other part undergoes the saignée method. In fact, everything for this wine is different. Also the vineyard management, for example, is adapted for the Gaudenzia. We want more phenolic maturity of the grapes, and it is important to reach a higher level of sugar. The slightly higher level of alcohol and the extra glycerine are important to obtain that richness on the palate.”

When asked if there will be more such Chiaretti in the future, Mr Cristoforetti answers positively. “With the production of Chiaretto going up, there is more space for experiments, so yes, there will undoubtedly be more such wines in the future.” But he does not see this as a break-away from the main style. “The Gaudenzia is sold in Michelin-starred restaurants, so it is great to have it as an exceptional wine in your range. But 98% of Chiaretti will remain fresh and crisp rosé.”

With a great demand for this style of rosé in Italy and Germany and with Chiaretto retailing easily at 10€ and more, it would indeed be not very wise to switch this success formula. But wines such as the Gaudenzia are a great addition for people who are looking for more complexity and a rosé that you can drink in every season.

Chianti Classico : 5 satisfying values to stock up on

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Over the past year I’ve explored Chianti Classico a bit and came to appreciate these wines as very attractive, often displaying ripe and juicy cherry fruit, mediterranean herbs, and sometimes mild tobacco notes. Often they are very accessible in their youth, but most also have the potential to age and develop more complexity. And what’s best : there are many values to be found between 10€ and 20€ on European webshops.

You may still find websites that talk about the Chianti in straw baskets (the “fiasco”), as the pinnacle of mediocre wine. While such bottles still exist, my experience with Chianti Classico is that these wines have actually become very reliable in terms of quality and offer a satisfyingly good price quality ratio.

The only drawback for those who are not so in the know about Italian wine, is the confusion that may still exist about Chianti Classico, so here are a few facts to help you find your way :

Which grapes?

First of all, the main grape for Chianti Classico is Tuscany’s super star grape : Sangiovese. For long the wine had to be a blend, which could even include white grapes. Since 1996, however, the rules allow to make a 100% Sangiovese, the minimum always being 80%. “International” grape varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are allowed, and there was a time that they were commonly used to achieve a recognizable style for the global market. But that trend seems to have come pretty much to an end, with local varieties such as Canaiolo or Colorino now being the preferred blending partners.

Chianti Classico vs Chianti

Chianti Classico is not the same as Chianti : while both are primarily made from Sangiovese, they refer to different geographical areas. Broadly speaking, Chianti Classico is the zone between Florence and Siena. The Chianti area lies around it and also has separate appellations such as Chianti Colli Senesi or Rùfina. The separation between the two finds its origin in the huge expansion of the production area in the beginning of the 20th century as a response to growing demands . As a counter reaction the producers in the original zone organized themselves in the Consorzio del Chianti Classico and achieved official recognition for the term Chianti Classico in 1934. It refers to the production zone as it was delineated back in 1716. So today Chianti and Chianti Classico are two different appellations with different rules and different productions zones.

The quality levels

Chianti Classico is the “entry-level”. In the hierarchy there is also the “Riserva” for wines that have aged longer (minimum 24 months) and then there is the “Gran Selezione”, added in 2014 to designate single vineyard wines made exclusively of Sangiovese and with an ageing period of minimum 30 months. Several wine writers criticized the Gran Selezione level and questioned the need for it. But the producers felt they needed something “ultra premium” in order to compete with their neighbors in Brunello and other top wines in the world. And behold, the first 100 point score for a Chianti Classico became a reality with Barone Ricasoli’s Ceniprimo 2018, Gran Selezione, receiving the perfect score from James Suckling.

The good thing, however, is that you don’t need to reach for the Riserva or Gran Selezion to buy a properly good wine as the entry-level Chianti Classico often are satisfyingly good. As a matter of fact, entry-level is to be taken with a grain of salt. At least if it is considered to be the cheaper bottle that you skip in order to get to the interesting wines. For Chianti Classico I don’t consider that to be the case. The “entry-level” wine is often the flag bearer of the wineries, the wine that should convince you of what they are capable of. And yes, that tickle you to want to try the Riserva. But by no means a wine that is an afterthought. And that is the difference, in my opinion, with Brunello di Montalcino, probably the most famous appellation for Sangiovese in Tuscany. The flagbearers here are the Brunellos. Their “second” wine, if you’d like, is the Rosso di Montalcino. These wines often have a comparable price setting as the Chianti Classico. But I will not hesitate to choose the Chianti Classico over the Rosso di Montalcino, because the winery just cannot afford its Chianti Classico to be average if they want to arouse interest in the rest of their wines.

If reading this put you in the mood to try out a Chianto Classico, here are 5 wines that you can safely buy and enjoy!

Vallenuova 2018, Tolaini

Tart cherries, ripe red fruit, and delicate herbs in the background. There is an attractive tension in this wine, a mouthwatering quality that makes you crave more. On the whole this is a rather light and elegant Chianti Classico, but don’t mistake that for a lack of body or interest. The picture is just right, and the pieces of the puzzle all come together perfectly. Difficult to stop refilling your glass with this one. And at less than 15€ in European webshops, this is perhaps the best value in this list!

Chianti Classico 2018, Castello di Monsanto

Very transparent red. Strawberry jam, cherries and a bit of pepper. The aromas are quite ripe and that is why the freshness on the palate comes a bit as a surprise, but a nice surprise. The acidity makes for a lively wine that beautifully balances the ripe fruit. There are fine and ripe tannins in the background which add a bit of backbone. Juicy and delicious, and again available under 15€!

Chianti Classico 16-18, Castello di Volpaia

The Chianti Classico 2016 of Volpaia was the wine that sparked my fondness for Chianti Classico. I had it in a restaurant and was immediately taken in by its attractive style combining vibrant red fruit with a subtle touch of cedar wood and ripe tannins finishing it off. In the unlikely case you can still find the 2016, stock up!

The 2018 has a more classic profile with ripe and juicy cherry fruit, making it more easy-going than the 2016. The subtlety it displayed on day 2, however, is promising for the future, so it is definitely worth waiting a couple of years for the 2018 Volpaia to show its full potential. Available between 15-20€.

Chianti Classico 2018, Castello di Fonterutoli

Fonterutoli is one the estates of the Mazzei family. Their Chianti Classico is one the classics of the region, but definitely a different type of wine than the previous Chiantis in this list. The style is much riper and fuller, with very seductive black cherries and well-dosed oak. There is also a savory element in this wine that creates an additional layer and more depth. This is a wine with substance and ripe tannins. It is clear that a few years of cellaring will help to integrate everything, but despite its youth, this wine is very attractive already now with its luscious fruit and smooth style. Prices tend to be a bit higher than the previous wines discussed here, around 20€. But that is still a good value for the quality you get here.

Chianti Classico 2016, Querciabella

Another household name when it comes to Chianti Classico, this Querciabella is an immediate pleaser with forest fruit, cherries, a bit of smoke, and attractive floral notes. This wine is rather full-bodied, smooth and nicely balanced. The tannins are still quite present, but they are very ripe and certainly don’t stand in the way of enjoying this wine already now. There is still loads to unpack here, and the elegance and precision it had gained on day 2, show that this wine will age beautifully. But if you cannot hold your guns, just pop it and enjoy. You will not be disappointed. If you look well, you can still find the Querciabella under 20€, and it’s worth every cent.

Enjoy, and let me know if you tried one of these wines!

Le Colture : surprisingly different Prosecco

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After my previous article about the sparklers of Franciacorta, it was a nice coincidence to receive samples of those other well-known Italian bubbles : Prosecco. It’s been a very long time since I had Prosecco at home, probably for the baby shower of my son, so 11 years ago by now. The reason why I never re-visited Prosecco is because its increasing popularity over the years resulted in a flood of cheap and anonymous Prosecco. In Belgium, for long that place was occupied by cheap Spanish Cava. The Netherlands, as usual, were faster to jump on the Prosecco bandwagon. Even France seems to have fallen for Prosecco, as I witnessed during my holidays in France last summer. Quite a few French bars and restaurants offered Prosecco as a a cheap alternative for Champagne. Perhaps quite predictably so, the few I tried as “apéro” were not of the kind that made me yearn for more.

So I was happy that I was given the chance to taste the Proseccos of a serious producer. Le Colture is a winery led by the Ruggeri family and based in Santo Stefano di Valdobbiadene, about 80km north of Venice. Cesare Ruggeri already grew grapes before he founded the winery, but decided in 1983 to start making his own sparkling wine. Today Le Colture has 45 hectares of vineyards spread over several zones, such as Santo Stefano, where the winery is located, but also a small portion on the Cartizze hill, the “cru” of Prosecco, up until the plateau of San Pietro di Feletto, just behind the historic town of Conegliano.

The samples I received triggered my attention already for the mere fact that not one was an Extra Dry Prosecco. That is the traditional style that is mostly drunk in Italy itself and it is slightly sweeter than a brut. Those Proseccos tend to be easy-going and fruity, mainly with ripe pear and sometimes a bit of florality. Instead, I received a Brut and even an Extra Brut. While Brut Prosecco is quite commonly made for the Western European market, “Extra Brut” was only allowed in the DOCG regulations in 2019 to “respond to the contemporary taste of customers”.

Fagher – Brut, Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG

Very light in color. Pear , jasmin, a bit yeasty. This is a fun nose that screams summer sipping. The ripe fruit might trick you into thinking that this Prosecco is sweet or off-dry, but it is completely dry, with very fine bubbles, and a slight hint of bitterness in the finish. This is a frivolous sparkler which goes down very easily. Dangerous stuff!

Gerardo – Extra Brut, Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG

The wine is named after the grandfather, Gerardo Ruggeri, and is made of grapes that come from old and very steep vineyards. Some of them are recognized as subzones, called “Rive”. This one is from the Rive di Santo Stefano. As mentioned before, the Extra Brut is a new category since 2019, with residual sugar being below 6g/l.

It is not as expressive as the Fagher. The nose is not about fruit, but totally about freshness. There is a strong linearity on the palate. Structure is the central concept of this wine, with a dynamic spiral of bubbles built around it. To people who are used to drinking sweeter versions, this must be a big shock, but I find it quite exciting actually. I wish I had tried it with oysters.

Incalmo

This is not a standard Prosecco, but a Col Fondo, which literally means “with the sediment”. Whereas Prosecco is normally made with a second fermentation in large tanks (also called the Charmat method or Martinotti method), the Col Fondo is made by adding yeast to the still wine in the bottle, inducing a second fermentation. For Franciacorta or Champagne the dead yeast cells are taken out to obtain a clear sparkling wine. As the word suggests, Col Fondo means the yeast is left inside the bottle. This gives a different style of Prosecco, slightly cloudy and with more yeasty aromas. The pressure is also lower than a normal sparkling wine, which gives a softer structure. In fact, this is the method that was used to make Prosecco by many small wineries before they had the technology and equipment to use the Charmat method that became ubiquitous in the 80s. The Col Fondos are easily recognizable by the crown cap that is used to close off the bottle.

Le Colture’s version of the Col Fondo unmistakably has different aromatics, with yeasty notes, white fruit, and a hint of almonds. It is bone dry on the palate with a luscious stream of soft bubbles. The almonds come back in the finish and emphasize the dryness of this sparkling wine. Incalmo is dynamic and surprising, it has absolutely nothing to do with mainstream Prosecco. Despite the fact that this wine is completely dry, it does not lack accessibility. Lovely and original apéritif!

Cartizze, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG

Cartizze is sometimes called the “Grand Cru” of Prosecco. In fact this is rather confusing as it is a different style of Prosecco altogether. Bar a few dry ones, Cartizze is normally a sweet sparkling wine. The grapes on the Cartizze hill are picked in October to obtain very ripe grapes. There are about 150 people who own vineyards on Cartizze, which is more than the number of wineries that produce it.

I am normally not keen on sweet sparkling wine, so I had looked for a few pastries to accompany the Cartizze. I figured that drinking this wine with a dessert would do more justice to it. Surprisingly, however, it did not come across as sweet as I expected it. The nose was delicately yeasty, with subtle aromas of pear. I found this Cartizze really attractive in fact, because of its restrained and delicate character. I paired it with pastry with whipped cream and rhubarb pie, which worked, but the dessert really shouldn’t have been any sweeter than this. Much to my surprise, I genuinely liked this wine!

In conclusion, I am very happy to have tried such a diversity of Proseccos. Not only were they of a consistently high level, they also showed that Prosecco has a bright future ahead of itself. With the Col Fondo attracting the attention of younger wine drinkers, and Extra Brut luring those with a taste for bone dry sparkling wine, these are quite exciting times for Prosecco.

A few Franciacorta recommendations for your end of year sparklers

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In a couple of months we’ll be popping our sparkling wines again to celebrate the end of yet another year. Unless you live in Italy, chances are slim you will be drinking Franciacorta. In 2019 Italy was responsible for 88,7% of sales in terms of volume. It’s those other Italian bubbles, Prosecco, that are all the rage internationally. And yet, Franciacorta was traditionally always hailed as the “quality” spumante from Italy. I remember during my sommelier training that it was introduced as the Italian “Champagne”.

Such comparison is problematic in several ways. First of all, it creates expectations : people will want their Franciacorta to smell and taste the same as Champagne. Not great for building your own identity. Secondly, it puts these wines in direct competition with Champagne. And as Champagne is still the reference in sparkling wine for many people : “why buy Franciacorta if you can get the “real deal” for the same price?” Indeed, the better Franciacortas are sold in Europe in the same price range as most big brand Champagnes, which is between 30 and 40€.

The comparison with Champagne is not too far-fetched, however. Both are made with the same method : the second fermentation in bottle, called “metodo classico” in Italy. Also, most Franciacorta is mostly made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the main grapes for Champagne production. Pinot Blanc is also allowed and a new grape, Erbamat, is allowed since 2017 to add freshness, but neither of those are often used.

The Consorzio of Franciacorta, who represents the producers and who is also responsible for the marketing, realizes that Franciacorta needs to get rid of its eternal comparison with Champagne. In 2020 they launched a marketing campaign under the slogan : “Very Italian, very Franciacorta”. The true essence of Franciacorta is “that of an Italian lifestyle par excellence, recognized all over the world”. Franciacorta is also recognized as a “Destination Partner” of Michelin. The Italian version of the restaurant guide will be presented in Franciacorta for the coming three years. The Consorzio even ordered research into the history of Franciacorta, which resulted in a book that is freely available on their website, and for which wine critic Kerin O’Keefe wrote the English resume. It is argued in the book that mention was made in the 16th century already of a sparkling wine in the Franciacorta area. Or as Kerin O’Keefe describes it, “wines that weren’t entirely still”. While the research was undoubtedly well conducted, it is quite a stretch to link modern day Franciacorta to those “lively” wines from centuries ago, as they were by no means produced in the same way as they are now. In fact the history of Franciacorta as we know it, dates to the 1960s with Guido Berlucchi being credited for producing the first Metodo Classico Franciacorta in 1961, the year that is still mentioned on their flagship sparkler.

What does all this give in the glass?

I tried a series of Franciacorta to get a better idea of the flavor profile and the quality. I also wanted to see if the comparison with Champagne is actually relevant or not.

One of the things that came out pretty clearly was the difference in profile between the cheaper Franciacortas (roughly under 20€) and the more expensive ones (aften above 30€). The cheaper Franciacortas were often relatively simple. Pleasant and uncomplicated, fresh and fruity, but not really reflecting the characteristics of a “metodo classico” sparkling wine. Much more character and complexity was found in the premium bottles.

When it comes to the aroma and flavor profile, it is hard to pin Franciacorta down on a few characteristics. But what came out quite clearly is that there is more to Franciacorta than being a Champagne imitation. In fact most Franciacortas had a fruit profile that was riper than the classic apple and pear fruit that is to be found in Champagne. Apricots were often found in the nose, as well as flowery aromas in the entry level wines. In the more expensive ones, there would often be strong toast aromas and sometimes wood, something that is still relatively rare in Champagne.

In terms of quality, the results were rather mixed. The cheaper Franciacortas were rather simple, although not necessarily unpleasant. But even in the more expensive range there were bottles that just did not convince. Some of them displayed an outspoken bitterness in the finish, bringing the wine out of balance.

So based on the bottles I had, it is difficult to come to a clear conclusion. Complex wines with character featured next to uncomplicated, not unforgettable bubbles. As a Champagne lover, I feel there is more consistency in the quality of Champagne than there is in Franciacorta. The good thing, however, is that the top performers were shining. These were attractive wines with a lot of character and a clear identity of their own.

These are my favorite ones :

Terre dei Trici 2015 Pas Dosé, Cascina San Pietro

100% Chardonnay. No dosage. Very attractive nose with apricot, peach and obvious toast aromas. The ripe fruit and the toast give a creamy touch to this sparkling wine, which is kept fresh by the lavish and very refined bubbles. The finish is rather dry, giving way only here that there was no dosage. Highly recommended, especially if you consider the price. At just over 20€ you get an exciting sparkler.

Dosaggio Zero 2015, Arcari + Danesi

This is mostly Chardonnay, which spent at least 30 months on the fine lees. No dosage. Gorgeous nose with plenty of minerality and delicate flower and citrus aromas. This a sparkling wine that is all about elegance and structure. Not a fruit bomb, but finesse, with very refined bubbles that create tension and make you grab your glass for more. This retails just above 30€. If you can get this Franciacorta, then you must give it a try. You will not regret it!

Museum Release 2007 Saten Brut, Ricci Curbastro

This is a Saten, the traditional term used in Franciacorta for a 100% Chardonnay. The Museum Release spends at least 65 months on the fine lees. The nose is expressive with ripe apple, a hint of apricot, strong toast aromas and even a hint of spicy wood, even though the technical note does not mention any wood being used. The bubbles are sumptuous and dynamic. At 40-45€ this is not cheap, but it is a sparkling wine that gives alot of everything and makes a big impression. It probably also is the one in this selection that will seduce Champagne drinkers the most.

Brut, Monsupello

90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. The color is surprising, as there is an obvious pink hue that gives away that this wine is made of Pinot Noir. There is also a hint of red fruit in the nose. The abundant and fine bubbles make this a refreshing sparkler. At around 20€ this is not especially complex but it’s a satisfying apéritif that goes down all too easily.

The top wines of Cantina Tramin in Italy’s Alto Adige

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I received a few samples from Cantina Tramin, an Italian cooperative in Alto Adige, also called Südtirol in German. Cooperatives are still often perceived as making cheap, inferior wines, so I was happy to receive some of their top wines in white. Cooperatives can produce genuinely good value for money wines, but others also have ambitions in the “premium” segment. As is the case for Cantina Tramin.

I had the pleasure of talking to Wolfgang Klotz, Director Marketing and Sales of Cantina Tramin, and Willi Stürz, their winemaker. In a mountainous region like Alto Adige working together is almost a necessity. “Alto Adige has 5000 hectares, and 5000 growers,” says Wolfgang, “so that gives a good idea of how fractioned Alto Adige is”. Without cooperatives it would probably not be economically viable for many to grow grapes. “But as a member of the cooperative it is. Many people would otherwise grow apples, for example. Or just move away to other regions where it is easier to make a living.” I remember hearing this as well when I spoke to the people of Cantina Tollo, who are based in Abruzzo, another mountainous region where it is hard to make a living in the countryside. Another example of the social impact of Cantina Tramin is the price guarantee that wine growers get : “For the high-end wines we want to have perfect ripeness of the grapes, which means harvesting later than for other grapes.” As chances of hail or heavy showers are higher in the mountains, there is always the risk that the grapes will be damaged if they are left in the vineyard until October. “But we cover that risk,” says Wolfgang. “The growers who are selected to provide the grapes for the topwines of Cantina Tramin are paid the full amount, no matter what happens.” This means that the growers can let the grapes hang until the ripeness is reached that Willi Stürz wants, withouth losing a part of their income if a storm destroys the harvest. So while the growers have a guaranteed income, Cantina Tramin gets the quality of grapes they want.

So what does this give in the glass? I tasted 5 whites that were selected to showcase the quality and style of Cantina Tramin’s high end wines.

Stoan 2019, DOC Alto Adige

If the name of this wine makes you think of “stone”, it is because it means exactly that. German is the main language in this region of Italy, and “stoan” is the local dialect for the German word “Stein”. This wine is made mostly of Chardonnay (65%), with Sauvignon blanc (20%), Pinot blanc (10%) and Gewürztraminer (5%) and is aged for one year in large casks. This blend may seem peculiar, but for Willi Stürz this was a logical choice : “At some point we thought : why not make a blend with the grapes that represent our region?”. And the blend actually works very well! The nose is very expressive, with apricot, fresh pear, a hint of aniseed, but also a bit of minerality that adds refinement. On the palate this wine is nicely round and creamy. The Sauvignon gives a touch of freshness, that counterbalances the ripe, exotic fruit. In the end there is a slight almond bitterness, giving a welcome contrast. Everything comes together so naturally in this wine. In a time where terroir and variety expression have become very important in the view of wine critics, this wine shows that skillful blending is still an art in itself.

Unterebner 2019, DOC Alto Adige

This is a Pinot gris, fermented in oak (25% in small tonneaux and 75% in large casks) with 12 months of further aging on the lees, again in large casks mostly. “People choose this wine because it is Unterebner, not because it is Pinot gris.” says Wolfgang Klotz. Indeed, Pinot gris doesn’t get positive press in general. “Few people invest in Pinot gris. In Alto Adige the advantage is that vineyards are not allowed in the valleys, where it can become too hot. The vineyards are on the slopes of the mountains, so we always have good cool temperatures during the nights. Nevertheless, most producers here will produce Pinot gris in stainless steel, to make clean and crisp wines.”

It’s clear that Cantina Tramin wanted to make everything but a crisps palate cleanser. Just after opening the nose starts off with very pure aromas, such as fresh pear and minerality. After a while the wood becomes more apparent, also on the palate, almost in a Burgundian way. This is definitely a Pinot Gris with a lot of substance and volume. Just as in the Stoan, there is a combination of creaminess and freshness that combines really nicely.

I was eager to taste this wine on the second day as I was curious how it would evolve. In fact, the evolution was quite impressive. The wood had nicely integrated, which brought the minerality and the fruit of this wine to the forefront. The elegance and balance of the Unterebner as showcased on day 2 makes it worth to give this wine a little more time.

Pepi 2020, DOC Alto Adige

This Sauvignon blanc takes its name from the first letters of the two sites the grapes come from : Pinzon and Penon. The latter is on the east side of the hills and is a cool site, which gives a typical Sauvignon expression and freshness. Pinzon is on the west side of the hills and gives riper grapes and a more exotic fruit expression. The fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks, after which it matures for six months in big barrels.

Sauvignon blanc can rarely hide that it is Sauvignon, and also here the aromas readily point in that way. But there are definitely no grassy or vegetal aromas here, rather attractively fresh peaches. On the palate this wine is graceful and light on its feet. Very refreshing and inviting, this wine will be a great partner for hot summer days.

Nussbaumer 2019, DOC Alto Adige

Cantina Tramin is a specialist of Gewürztraminer. The Nussbaumer is made and aged entirely on stainless steel. 30 years ago it had almost disappeared in Alto Adige, but now it is back and Cantina Tramin has several Gewürztraminers in the premium segment.

The nose is very aromatic and rich with roses, coreander, green herbs, and aniseed. After a bit of air there is also a subtle hint of minerality that gives extra complexity. The wine is creamy, round and sufficiently fresh. Although Cantina Tramin makes this Gewürztraminer in a dry style, it is not bone dry. There is a bit of residual sugar that gives a hint of sweetness.

Gewürztraminer is not an easy grape to get right. It can lack acidity, have very high levels of alcohol, or bitterness in the end. There is none of that in this Nussbaumer. “We let the grapes ripen until they almost burst. That is why there is no bitterness here. And yet the acidity is good, because of the altitude of the vineyards (300-500m).” Not everyone likes Gewürztraminer, but if you do, then this Nussbaumer offers much complexity and depth.

Troy 2017, DOC Alto Adige

If the previous wines are the “premium” segment of Cantina Tramin, then you could this Chardonnay their “super premium” wine. The vineyards are situated between 500 and 550m altitude, the yields are kept very low (35 hl/ha) and, just as with their other wines, Cantina Tramin goes for full ripeness of the grapes, while keeping good acidity for freshness. The fermentation is done in small oak barrels, followed by 11 months of lees aging. An additional 1,5 year of aging in stainless steel tanks makes the wine pretty much ready to drink when it comes on the market.

The nose starts off with attractive aromas of apricot and pear. There’s a bit of vanilla here as well that makes a nice combination with the ripe fruit. But it’s on the palate that this wine really reveals all its power. There are two elements that make this wine very special : the first is the flavor intensity. This is something that is rarely talked about when discussing the quality of wine, but in my experience high flavor intensity is a quality that I only find in top wines (and sweet wines, but that’s a completely different story). The second is the density, again something that I associate with top wines. Troy has both these aspects, not to mention a very long finish. This is a wine that makes a big impression. Definitely not a Chardonnay for the faint-hearted, but a wine that makes a statement.

This changed dramatically on day two, however, with the wine that had shed most of the oak and the density, only to gain in finesse and elegance. There was even a bit of minerality that made the nose very intriguing and attractive. The oak played a support role, rather than being one of the prominent features. A completely different appearance of this wine. But both versions are very neat renditions of what Chardonny has to offer, and allow you to play with the time of opening : you can enjoy this wine in its youth to savour the richness and density, or you can wait a few years to allow for more subtlety to develop.

Conclusion

This line-up made it very clear that cooperatives are perfectly capable of producing top wines. It’s also nice to see that there is a clear vision behind these wines : the choice to go for optimal maturity leads to wines with full and rich flavors, while maintaining their freshness. Clever wine making by Willi Stürz.

Then there is the social aspect of working as a cooperative : garantueeing the price for the grapes, offering technical expertise and ultimately contributing to the possibility for local growers to be able to make a living in a region where grape growers would otherwise struggle. Not something every wine drinker might care for, but nice to know for those who do.

Chiaretto di Bardolino : 10 great summer sippers

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The summer season is coming, so the Consorzio di Bardolino presented the new vintage of Chiaretto, the local rosé, as part of the Anteprima Campaign. In fact, I should say Chiaretto di Bardolino, as is it officially called now. Bardolino is perhaps most known for its light and fruity reds, very much in the style of its bigger neighbor Valpolicella. But Bardolino is also Italy’s biggest producer of rosé, with 12 million bottles of Chiaretto per year. That’s twice as much as that other known Italian rosé, the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Chiaretto has nothing to do with Cerasuolo, however. As the name suggests (Chiaretto comes from the Italian word chiaro = light) the color is pale pink. But it hasn’t always been like this. In fact, it’s only since 2014 that the decision was made to change the style of the rosé. Before the rosé was made with skin maceration (or “saignée”, the French word for “bleeding”), which gave a darker hue to the wine. Now the grapes are pressed with minimal skin contact, resulting in a fashionably pale pink. The reason for this is very simple : pale rosé sells better! Having said that, there still was quite a bit of variation in the color of the samples, as you can see below.

Pale rosé is nowadays inextricably linked to the Provence in France. But there where Provence rosé often has rather ripe, almost sweet fruit, Chiaretto di Bardolino tends to be crisp, fresh and bone dry. They are not the most fruit forward pinks, although there is mostly a bit of citrus fruit there. The main feature of the Chiaretto is its freshness! And that immediately explains what makes it so attractive for summer sipping. The acidity in these wines is very refreshing, which makes them great for aperitivo, or for an al fresco lunch. Chiaretto is a favorite drink of tourists around Lake Garda, and in fact the match with the fish of the lake is ideal, as it is sweet water fish, giving a rather delicate taste and structure.

The wines

I tasted 50 samples of Chiaretto, almost all 2020, with a few exceptions. In principle the main grapes are Corvina and, to a lesser extent, Rondinella. Other grapes are grapes allowed, such as Merlot, but despite the fact that some of the wines indeed had other grapes in the blend, the consistency of the taste profile was remarkable : fresh and crisp rosé. Not immensely aromatic and also no fruit bomb, Chiaretto is made to be refreshing and inviting.

In general the quality was consistently good. Below I recommend 10 wines, but I easily could have listed many more that would provide an enjoyable summer drink. The 10 wines I chose have more to offer, however, than the hallmark freshness of Chiaretto. I rewarded the wines that showed a little bit more interest, in the form of more pronounced fruit or fresh herbal aromas. I also payed attention to the balance, as the acidity in some was so pronounced that it became unenjoyable. But those were really the minority. In fact, I daresay that that the consistency of the wines is so high that you can be pretty safely buy a bottle and know what you’re going to get. This is my selection of those that had more to offer than the standard crispness and freshness :

Seiterre – El Salgar, Chiaretto di Bardolino 2020 ❤️

I have a top 5, but if I had to pick one out as my favorite, it would be this one. Very attractive rasberry color, clearly a bit darker than most others. Attractive nose of redcurrant and green, minty freshness. Really nice on the palate with that redcurrant coming back and even a hint of blackcurrant. The balance is impeccable with well integrated acidity. There is more to this Chiaretto than the usual freshness. The red fruit and the green herbs give this wine an additional element that provides more interest. I thouroughly enjoyed this wine!

Guerrieri Rizzardi – Keya, Chiaretto di Bardolino Classico 2020

There is a lovely hint of minerality in the nose with a green fresh element, inviting you to take a sip. The palate is somewhat surprising as the aromas suggest a lean and tight rosé. In fact, there’s more volume here than in most others, which makes this rosé also a good companion for dishes with more character. A bouillabaisse springs to mind. The acidity is nicely integrated and overall the balance is really good. There is something distinguished about this wine.

Vigneti Villabella – Chiaretto di Bardolino Classico 2020

The nose immediately attracts my attention, with red fruit and a bit of herbal freshness. Good balance with the green herbs giving more depth. Everything is fresh, but the acidity is mild, which makes for a very pleasant rosé.

Vitevis – Cà Vegar, Chiaretto di Bardolino 2020

Probably one of the palest pinks in the line-up. The nose is appealing with citrus and a hint of smoky minerality. This is lovely on the palate with citrus fruit against a fresh yet mild background. You will want more than just one glass of this.

Poggio delle Grazie – Chiaretto di Bardolino (organic) 2020

Subtle but attractive nose with a bit of smoky minerality. Very nice balance on the palate with the typical salivating acidity of Chiaretto, but also good volume, which makes it more than just refreshing. The mouthfeel is really pleasing. This rosé would feature nicely on a restaurant wine list to accompany mediterranean styled fish dishes.

Villa Calicantus – Chiaretto di Bardolino Classico (biodynamic) 2019

This one is a real maverick in the line-up. It performed on the same level as the others in my top five, but at the same time this wine is very different. The color is remarkable, as it has a very orange hue. The nose gives evolved aromas with dried fruit, brown apple and even a bit of honey, which, admittedly, is a bit awkward between all those fresh and crisp Chiarettos. On the palate, however, this is extremely fresh, with a nervous acidity that balances the dried fruit. There are even tannins lingering in the background. Although this is definitely a bit of an oddball rosé, I cannot help liking it, as there is real complexity here. The contrast on the palate is challenging, but rewarding. During the Anteprima presentation there were questions about this wine, but Angelo Peretti of the Consorzio left no doubt about whether this wine should be accepted as Chiaretto : “yes, of course, this is also a typical Chiaretto. It has that typical freshness, just like the other Chiarettos”. I can only agree about the freshness. But it is obvious that this is not your typical summer sipper.

And the four runners up to complete my top 10 :

Bennati – I Gadi 2020, Chiaretto di Bardolino

One of the more darker colored rosés, almost raspberry color. Attractive nose, with a hint of florality, rose hip, and rather ripe redcurrant. The attack is fresh and the acidity is nicely integrated. A juicy and well-balanced rosé.

Lenotti – Decus, Chiaretto di Bardolino 2020

Not very aromatic but rather subtle nose with an attractive hint of minerality. Very juicy and pleasant. Perfect for a hot summer evening while chattering away with friends.

Casaretti – Rosa dei Casaretti (organic), Chiaretto di Bardolino Classico 2020

Very pale, onion skin color. Fresh but not very aromatic nose. Quite elegant and balanced with a certain pine tree freshness that gives a nice touch to this wine. There’s even a subtle hint of cedar wood.

Le Morette – Chiaretto di Bardolino Classico 2020

White peach and a hint of smoky minerality. This is very refreshing and juicy. Really pleasing on the palate with well integrated acidity. A no-brainer for a summery picnic.

To conclude : A few tips on the serving temperature. It is suggested to serve Chiaretto really cold if you have it as an aperitif. I found, however, that the wines showed more interest when served a bit warmer than served straight out of the fridge. These wines are already not the most aromatic, so letting them warm up a little bit will help to bring out the aromas. And the lively acidity helps alot to keep that freshness in there, even when the wine warms up a little. So there is really no reason to be afraid that your rosé will flat.

I wrote this piece in between the showers and hail storms, which is a little odd when the topic is rosé. But hopefully the weather gods will bring change soon. And when they do, make sure that bottle is well chilled. Salute!

Le Macchiole’s Paleo and a vertical of the Bolgheri Rosso

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Bolgheri has a special place in my memory. We were on holidays in Tuscany in 2010 while my wife was pregnant of our son. It was also the time that my interest in wine started developing, so even though we were not based anywhere near Bolgheri, I still managed to convince my wife to head there and drive along the Strada del Vino, lined with majestic cypress trees, just to see the grounds where some of Italy’s most famous wines come from. The owner of a B&B in Liguria, where we were staying on our way to Tuscany, had glitters in his eyes when he heard where we were going. The way he spoke of wines such as Sassicaia and Ornellaia was with great reverence, but also a certain melancholy. Already then these were wines that fetched prices that occasional wine drinkers found undecent. So it was with great delight that we found a wine bar in Bolgheri where you could actually taste Sassicaia from a wine dispenser. 15€ for a quantity that allowed my wife and I each one sip.

I remember thinking : is this it? the great Sassicaia? In hindsight, it probably was the youngest vintage on sale, so close-knit and not very aromatic, and with a quantity like that, you’re literally not going to taste much. But at that time, it did not stimulate me to further explore Bolgheri and it was with great pleasure that I delved into Italy’s treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties.

The opportunity arose for a new look at Bolgheri when I was invited to attend an online tasting of Le Macchiole’s Bolgheri Rosso and their flagship wine, Paleo, a 100% Cabernet Franc. Le Macchiole was founded in 1983 by Eugenio Campolmi and his wife, Cinzia Merli, and is located a few kilometers from the coast. The first wine that appeared under the name of Le Macchiole was the Paleo in 1989. First made as a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, they decided to add Cabernet Franc in 1993 to become a monovarietal wine in 2001. The exceptionally hot summer of the previous year had led the winery to add more Cabernet Franc to give more freshness and acidity. The result was so good that they decided to fundamentally transform the wine into a 100% Cabernet Franc, the first winery in Bolgheri to do so. And with great success, as the Paleo is a wine that receives much critical acclaim.

The Bolgheri Rosso of Le Macchiole is a blend of mostly Merlot and varying amounts of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, depending on the vintage. As Cinzia Merli, who leads the estate since her husband passed away in 2002, explains : the Bolgheri Rosso should not be seen as the “entry level” wine. It is made to stay true to its Bolgheri origins as a Tuscan expression of a blend of French grape varieties. What is quite remarkable about the Bolgheri Rosso is the lack of new oak. 20% of the grapes is aged in cement, the rest is put in 2nd, 3rd and 4th passage barriques.

The tasting was an interesting opportunity also to compare vintages; as we tasted the 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2019 of the Bolgheri Rosso alongside the Paleo 2017.

Bolgheri 2015

Attractive cherries and cherry pith, with a hint of dried flowers. There’s a subtle layer of dark spice underneath, clove perhaps, that gives extra depth. On the palate the wine has good substance which is kept nicely fresh against a backbone of ripe tannins. In general the mouthfeel of this wine is rather soft and silky, but there is a dynamic quality that adds liveliness and makes the wine quite exciting. This wine is really good and enjoyable now, but has many years ahead of itself.

Bolgheri 2016

Sommelier Eros Teboni, who led the tasting, proposed the 2016 alongside the 2015. Both are outstanding vintages, but 2016 has that extra oomph and is generally considered as one of the best vintages of the last 10 years. The wine does not fail to demonstrate that it has that extra edge. Just after opening, there is something flowery, ethereal almost. With a bit of air it gains extra volume and offers salivating juicy cherries. Again there is lifting vein of acidity that makes every sip so refreshing. With extra time in the glass there’s also black pepper coming through in the nose. No hard edges or whatsoever, everything is just perfectly balanced.

Bolgheri 2018

The next pair we tasted was the 2018 vs the 2019. The summer of 2018 was very hot and there was little rain, making it very important to leave enough leaves on the vines for extra shade and to keep works on the soil limited to avoid ground water from evaporating. The nose of the 2018 is quite frivolous. An initial lactic touch blows off to make place for cheerful violets and cherries. The wine is quite supple and has a little less depth than the others, but its smoothness makes it ready to enjoy already now.

Bolgheri 2019

The 2019 is a bit shy upon opening. The nose is a bit hesitant but all ingredients are there with dark cherries, a hint of pepper and again that dark, spicy layer underneath the fruit, just as the 2015 had. A little bit of pine freshness gives a nice lift. As can be expected from such a young wine, everything is quite concentrated. And yet, the hallmark frehsness and silkiness of Le Macchiole’s Bolgheri wines are also present here. Interesting to add, by the way, that the 2019 had opened up considerably when I re-tasted it on day 2, so a few more years will be good to add extra aromatic appeal.

Paleo 2017, IGT Toscana

Blueberries and brambleberries, graphite and noble cedar wood, it is clear that this is a very different ballgame than the Bolgheri Rosso. The nose is incredibly refined and fresh with a hint of green herbs, but not a single trace of Cabernet Franc’s typical bell pepper aromas. The balance and elegance of this wine is impressive. Despite its youth everything comes together beautifully already now with pure and fresh fruit and incredibly fine tannins. There is a kind of restrained power in this wine that makes it so attractive to enjoy already now, but also for many years to come. The finish is long and makes you grab for another sip. This wine is definitely in a league of its own.

Just one suggestion if you want to enjoy this wine now : open it a couple of hours in advance to give it some air. There is a bit of new oak just after opening that will blow off and make place for all the nuances that this wine has to offer.

CONCLUSION

Le Macchiole has done an outstanding job with these wines. What I particularly liked in the line-up was the consistency. Despite the very different profiles of the Bolgheri Rosso and the Paleo there is a clear vision that transpires of elegance and freshness in all the wines we tasted. The Bolgheri Rosso is probably the opposite of a bombastic wine, with silky fruit and freshness, while the Paleo is simply one of the best Cabernet Francs I’ve ever had.

The great thing with the Paleo is that it has carved out an own identity for Cabernet Franc. As Cinzia pointed out : there is no 100% Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux, and Cabernet Franc in the Loire is very different, so there’s no real comparison to be made with the wines from France. Indeed, the Paleo was perfectly ripe and had no trace of the green and unripe notes that you can sometimes have in French Cabernet Franc. It ripens perfectly in the Mediterranean climate ànd can handle the heat better than Merlot. It is therefore no surprise that other wineries in Bolgheri have followed suit and also started making 100% Cabernet Franc.

On a personal note, this tasting definitely aroused my interest to have a closer look again at the wines of Bolgheri.

MonteRosola : putting Volterra on the wine map

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I received samples from a relatively new winery in Tuscany, called MonteRosola, which started activities in 2015. The winery in Volterra was bought by a Swedish family, who runs an investment company back home. If you’ve been to Tuscany, then chances are high that you know Volterra. It’s one of those beautiful, dramatic hill-top towns that are so typical for the region. But the fact that it attracts many tourists every year, doesn’t mean that it has a strong reputation when it comes to wine. As a matter of fact, Volterra is more or less a stretch of no-man’s land in between famous wine producing zones such as Bolgheri in the west and Chianti in the east. So setting up a winery in such an area is a bold move, especially if you have high ambitions like the Thomaeus family.

The Swedish owners left nothing to chance. The winery is impressive, with ultra modern equipment and the capacity to host big celebrations. With the rolling countryside hills in the background, everything is set up to provide a luxurious “Tuscan” experience. For the wine making, they called upon Alberto Antonini, a wine consultant who formerly worked as technical director at Col d’Orcia and head wine maker at Antinori.

MonteRosola has a range of wines with on the one hand the typical Tuscan varieties Vermentino and Sangiovese, and on the other a more international line with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Viognier. The price of the latter category clearly follows a « Super Tuscan » approach.

The samples that are reviewed here are the Vermentinos and the Sangioveses.

Mastia 2018, IGT Toscana Rosso

Sangiovese blend. Ripe and generous cherry fruit on the nose, with a hint of florality just after opening. The generosity of the fruit is also reflected on the palate and there is a bit of heat noticeable, both contributing to a very round mouthfeel. A layer of powdery tannins makes for a grippy texture and there’s a slight bitterness in the ending. The balance is not quite right yet here.

Crescendo 2016, IGT Toscana Rosso

100% Sangiovese. Brambleberry, blueberry, and prominent but attractive Bordeaux-style cedar wood. There’s also a hint of leather against a pleasantly smoky background.

There’s a lot going on in the mouth with the forest fruit that opens the scene for a boisterous mix of fresh acidity and relatively muscled tannins. The latter again have that powdery quality, like in the Mastia, but they are better integrated here. The spiciness of the wood and the texture of the tannins beg for more bottle aging, but the balance is right and the classiness of this wine is already obvious now. Everything is in place for this wine to become really outstanding in three or four year’s time. The « international » style will perhaps not appeal to those who seek for “pure” Sangiovese, but the fact is that this is a really good and rather elegant wine.

Cassero 2019, IGT Toscana Bianco

Vermentino. Very lemony nose with candied lemon and lemon pith, and a bit of pear. Vermentino often has a tell-tale bitterness in the finish, but here it is already present on the mid-palate. This full-bodied white is definitely not an easy summer sipper, but rather a wine to accompany a meal. I had it with several different creamy cheeses, and that worked well. This is a characterful Vermentino, and in a region where a lot of bland whites are made, that’s a good thing.

Primo Passo 2018, IGT Toscana Bianco

Vermentino. Quite subtle nose. Attractive, fresh and smoky nose with pear and apricot. Beautifully cool, almost mineral, with a hint of aniseed in the backdrop. The freshness is also clear on the palate with a precise vein of acidity. That Vermentino almond bitterness is there but it is well measured and adds a bit of structure in the finish. Vermentino is not the easiest grape to get right, but this one is spot on!

Conclusion

MonteRosola definitely has something to show. It’s great to see, by the way, that ambition doesn’t come with bombastic wines, as they move from rather full bodied entry-level wines to more refined and elegant wines in the higher price range. And a little surprising, also, to see how good the whites are. Tuscany is a famous wine region, but the fame is made with the reds, not the whites. So to see them taking Vermentino to a really high level with the Primo Passo is great.

Palmento Costanzo : a future reference for Etna wines?

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When I was offered to try the services of WineJump, a platform that allows you to buy wines in Europe straight from the winery, the first thing I noticed was that they have a very big offer of Italian wines. My litmus test for Italian wine shops is to see how many wines they have from Le Marche, a wine region that produces top white wines (Verdicchio) and underestimated reds (Lacrima di Morro d’Alba anyone?). Turns out they have 7 pages with wines from Le Marche… Pretty impressive choice!

But my curiosity about the wines of Palmento Costanzo got the better of me. It’s been quite a while since my post on Etna Rosso, and I was curious about this relatively new winery. They’re based on the northern slopes of the volcano, near Passopisciaro. where several famous wineries are based, such as Graci and Frank Cornelissen. Palmento Costanzo is one of many wineries to have arrived since 2000, many of which came with ample resources. Palmento Costanzo does not seem to be an exception, as the winery was bought in 2011 by Mimmo Costanzo, owner of a big construction company in Catania. The pictures leave no doubt about the investments that were done to build a very modern winery. The ambition level also speaks from the price setting of the wines. The most expensive wine in the range is a pre-phylloxera wine that hits the 100€ mark. So it’s with high expectations that I tasted 6 of their wines.

The whites

It is mainly the red wines of the Etna that receive all the attention, and I must admit that the few Etna Biancos that I tasted before did not do much to change that for me. I was ready, however, to be proven wrong.

Mofete 2019, Etna Bianco (70% Carricante – 30% Cataratto)

Pop and pour : the word that comes to mind after the first sniff is “crystalline”. The nose is very pure and cool. There’s a subtle scent of flowers and sage. This wine is particularly linear, and I mean that in a positive way. If you’re familiar with the wines of the Etna, then this does probably not come as a surprise, but still, it’s so counter-intuitive to come across such a cool and linear wine from an island in the Mediterranean. I had Chablis recently that was not as tight as this Etna Bianco! The 12°C alcohol is an apt illustration of the character of this wine.

Half a day later : more fruit has appeared, with apricots that make this wine more expressive and perhaps more approachable. The acidity is still prominent, however, without being excessive. This is an attractive, cool-climate wine. Yes, from Sicily.

Bianco di Sei 2018, Etna Bianco (90% Carricante – 10% Cataratto)

The price tag of the Bianco di Sei is 10€ higher than the Mofete, and some wineries then make the mistake of making an ambitiously wooded version of the entry wine. In this case there is no wood involved, but 10 months of lees aging, which normally gives added volume and roundness to a wine.

The nose is rather reserved, but again very fresh, just as the Mofete. There is a big difference in terms of volume, however, as this wine definitely has more body. There where the Mofete has an almous nervous tension, the Bianco di Sei has a friendlier way of introducing itself without, however, losing its coolness and vibrant acidity. There is a bit of fennel and an intriguing herbal fresh note that oddly reminds me of pine resin. This is a beautifully balanced wine with a very distinctive character.

The reds

Mofete 2017, Etna Rosso (80% Nerello Mascalese – 20% Nerello Cappucio)

Pop and pour : Beautiful flowery and ethereal aromas rise from the glass. These quickly make space, however, for ripe red fruit that balances between raspberries and cherries. There’s a certain generosity here that comes with the ripe fruit and that’s continued in the mouthfeel, which is rather round and and a bit fluffy. A slight bitterness in the end wraps it up for day 1.

Day two : no more raspberries, but black cherries now, with a bit of allspice. The generosity of day one has made place for more precision, and a more slender frame that also brings out the tannins, although they are still very civilized. Drinking this wine now will certainly provide a lot of immediate pleasure with the ripe fruit, but if you can give this wine an extra year or two you will be rewarded with more definition and elegance.

Nero di sei 2017, Etna Rosso (80% Nerello Mascalese – 20% Nerello Cappucio)

Pop and pour : a little bit shy in the beginning, but then beguiling aromas of redcurrant come out of the glass, very ethereal and refined. While the wine seems a bit fragile at first, it gains in volume with a bit of air, and there’s a very interesting savory element that adds to the red fruit, with curry powder and black pepper. Very intriguing. The balance is really nice with good acidity that keeps the wine very succulent.

Half a day later : the red fruit has turned into attractive cherries, with aromas that are reminiscent of a luscious Sangiovese. Quite different from what it was just after opening, but just as enjoyable. There’s definitely plenty of time left to drink this wine, but you can also just happily pop the cork and enjoy this wine.

Contrada Santo Spirito – Particella 466 – 2016, Etna Rosso (90% Nerello Mascalese – 10% Nerello Cappucio)

Palmento Costanzo have three “Contrada” wines. Santo Spirito is the name of the Contrada, but they have further divided the vineyard in three parcels – which received the numbers 464, 466 and 468 – as they felt each parcel gives a different expression of Etna Rosso.

There where the Mofete and the Nero di Sei opened with red fruit before evolving towards black fruit, this one immediately opens with cherries, appearing a bit riper, and also more structured, with tannins that are present, but pleasantly ripe and still very much playing a supportive role rather than taking the forefront. Again everying is nicely balanced, nothing is overdone. While this wine is attractive already as it is with lots of luscious fruit, I expect it to develop more nuances and layers with a few years more in the bottle.

Contrada Santo Spirito – Particella 468 – 2016, Etna Rosso (90% Nerello Mascalese – 10% Nerello Cappucio)

The nose is very subtle and complex, with enticing redcurrant. In general I agree that we should not over-compare, but this wine begs a comparison with great Chambolles. This is a nose that really takes me in and that does so from the very start, so no need to wait until it opens up. People looking for big and bold will not be impressed by this 468 as this is very much a light-footed wine, but if that is your game, than this wine really delivers. Everything is in the right place, with tender fruit, refreshing acidity, and subtle tannins. There’s also a hint of blood orange that adds to the complexity of the wine. With a price-tag of over 40€, this is definitely not cheap, but I daresay that Palmento Costanzo’s ambitions resulted in a top notch Etna Rosso here!

Conclusion :

The consistent quality of the wines of Palmento Costanzo is remarkable. Although this is a relatively young winery, they seem to have found a clear identity for their wines, with their hallmark balance and freshness. And that is true, by the way, both for their white and red Etna wines. The Particella 468 left a big impression, but the Nero di Sei also deserves a special mention with its intriguing savory notes.

Palmento Costanzo is perhaps not a household name yet in the Etna, like Benanti, Graci, Tenuta delle Terre Nere and others, but with the ambitions they have and the quality they offer, I see them offering stiff competition.

Review : Cantina Tollo’s new sustainable range of Abruzzo wines. And why sustainable is more than organic.

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Cantina Tollo launched a new line of sustainable wines for the on-trade in April. In this article I review those wines, but I also elaborate on what sustainable means for Cantina Tollo. And that is more than the environmental part of it.

Cantina Tollo is a co-operative from the Abruzzo region in Central Italy. If you are keen on cycling you may remember Cantina Tollo as shirt sponsor (1996-2002) of the team which included Mario Cipollini, Danilo di Luca and other well known cyclists.

They are also known, however, as a producer of consistently good wines with a good price-quality ratio. My first acquaintance with Cantina Tollo was in 2016 when I tasted their MO Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2011, which I liked very much. It was very smooth and elegant, perfectly balanced. A real pleaser, and sold at just over 10€. This wine keeps piling up the awards and has received five consecutive Tre Bicchiere of the Gambero Rosso wine guide since the 2011 vintage. The last MO I had was the 2015, which confirmed all the goodness I remember from the 2011. Luscious black and red fruit, noticeable but well-dosed wood, and refreshing acidity. An attractive and harmonious wine, and at a democratic price.

So I was very excited to taste the samples I received from Cantina Tollo of their newly released line of sustainable wines for the on-trade. These wines are certified organic and vegan, which means no animal-derived products were used, such as cow manure or fining agents based on animal proteins. Moreover, efforts were made to make the packaging sustainable with the use of recycled cardboard, recycled paper for the labels, and capsules without pvc.

You may think that they are a bit late to jump on the bandwagon of organic wines, but in fact they have been making organic wine since the 1980s. The difference of the new line with the other organic wines is that the new wines have undergone a stricter selection, and the best quality grapes go into this line.  

The thing I like the best, however, about these new wines, is that sustainability goes beyond the environmental aspect and includes a socio-economic part as well. The odd 50 members of the co-operative who farm organically are offered a price for their grapes that reaches almost double the price of non-organic grapes. Cantina Tollo also offers them a contract that protects them from unforeseen circumstances. So even if yields were low because of bad weather or diseases, for example, the growers will still get a good price. In a region such as Abruzzo, which is still a big producer of bulk wines that are sold at bottom prices, this is a very welcome incentive not only to work organically but also not to convert to other crops, or simply not to move away from the region.

In terms of appearance much attention was given to the styling of the bottles. Cantina Tollo chose a format that represents the bottles that were used in the end of the 19th century by producers to bottle their own wine. While they certainly catch the eye, the downside of this type of bottle is that they are relatively heavy (ca. 500g). This is an issue that was given a fair bit of attention recently by well-known wine critics, such as Jancis Robinson, so this is something Cantina Tollo will have to address. As Commercial and Marketing Director of Cantina Tollo, Andrea Di Fabio, explains, however, they are aware of the issue and intend to look for solutions for future vintages.

In terms of the wines there are 5 different offerings, all singly variety, and all made of local grapes.

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2019

Very expressive, lemony nose with a hint of almond. While the mouthfeel is quite round, the acidity makes this is a refreshing wine. This is definitely not a thin Trebbiano, of which there are still many unfortunately. There is real substance here and considerable length with a pleasant lemon zest bitterness that lingers for a while.

This is a not a very complex wine, but really well made as the kind of wine you want to have in an ice bucket next to you when you have a fritto misto or a warm goat cheese salad.

Passerina 2019, IGP Terre di Chieti

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Subtle nose with white peach and a green herbal note. This Passerina is not as aromatic as the Trebbiano but the nose is delicately perfumed. No fruit bomb but rather driven by its mild and well integrated acidity. This wine is fresh, dry and structured in a way that reminds me somewhat of a Verdicchio. In a previous article I lauded the gastronomic qualities of Verdicchio because of those characteristics, and this Passerina seems to have the same quality of being an subtle and elegant wine that will accomodate many dishes. White fish dishes will do well, but also Oriental food is a good match. The soy and fish sauce flavors of the ramen soup we had with it paired beautifully with the Passerina.

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Pecorino 2019, IGP Terre di Chieti

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Very delicate and shy nose with green herbs and a bit of aneth. On the palate this is again nicely balanced with good freshness against a round backdrop. This is definitely not the type of Pecorino that is made in the style of a Sauvignon Blanc, as those exist as well. The character of this one is more in line with the Passerina, dry and fresh, and will therefore be a versatile food companion. Sea fruit, oysters and mussels will all make a good match.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2019

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Bright and aromatic, the freshly cut red fruit and minerality jump out of the glass. This invites very much for a sip. Absolutely not a characterless rosé like there are so many, but a wine with a fresh core and subtle red fruit, a combination that is difficult to resist. The mesmerizing, dark pink color completes the picture of the perfect wine for a sun-drenched lunch that lasts until it’s time to have dinner. Lovely! 

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2019

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Fresh cherries with a herbal, peppery element. Lovely fruitiness, with mild acidity that keeps everything nicely fresh. The tannins are a bit grippy but ripe. The wine was aged in cement tanks, so this is a pure rendition of the grape. Don’t let this fool you in thinking that this is a light, fruity wine, because there is considerable structure here. Cantina Tollo managed to combine accessibility with character. Not always easy to find that balance.

This wine will be a great match with grilled meat. The match with our (attempt of) homemade pizza was decent, but this wine can, and wants to, handle more than that.

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When asked whether the decision to go for cement tanks was a conscious choice in terms of the style of the new line, Andrea di Fabio explained that Cantina Tolla was never big on wood. A recent tasting of their top wine, the Cagiòlo 2012 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, confirms this. Whereas Montepulciano is a grape that tends to get heavy oak treatment, the wood in this one was very discriminate with beautiful cedar tones. Also the Cagiòlo is a very well-made and balanced wine that will seduce many palates.